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Tuesday April 29th Routier to La Redorte - Les Penitents Bleus (our first French Passion!) via Carcassonne.

We pass a very quiet night, this place has been a really quiet little gem of an aire.  Tonight sees us doing a small skip down the road to our first French Passion . We have been sort of avoiding them so far because they have been mostly Foie Gras producers or farms because of the regions we’ve been traveling through and animals mean Norm barking incessantly. But Les Penitents Bleus is a wine producer situated on the banks of the canal midi. It sounds perfect. Despite only being 40k or so away from where we stopped last night the landscape begins to change again… vines start marching away as far as the eye can see and we are on relative flat lands with the Pyrenees to one side and the Grand Massif looming away to the other.

We make a brief detour into Carcassonne to dip a toe into the fortress walls and see a little of the city. It really is breath-taking, but even at this time of year the old streets are very crowded and it makes for difficult passage with the dogs. Especially when it transpires that Norm is scared of medieval pageant type people beating drums! We flee to the relative sanctuary of the city proper and restore ourselves at the fabulously French Café Felix. The city is a strange combination of modern, ancient, beautiful and grotty. While Carcassonne is a must see it’s not somewhere we find ourselves wanting to spend too much time. With a quick zoom through an open air gallery after Café Felix we head back to Valerie to continue on to La Redorte.



With fortuitous timing we arrive at Les Penitents Bleus on the heels of one of the owners: Solange. There is only one other camper here and Solange makes us feel very welcome telling us to park up and enjoy the sun and giving us directions to the local town (La Redorte) should we want to go for a mooch. The dogs are allowed out and immediately take themselves off for a frolic down the canal which is about 10 metres away by fields of vines. It’s beautiful and completely quiet. And sunny! Solange leaves us to it with a parting invitation to join them for a wine tasting in the evening. Oh, if we must, but what a bloody inconvenience, really! If all French Passions are like this then it’s hard to believe anybody would stay anywhere else. Or indeed be able to leave capable of getting out of the parking space.  


We pass a lovely afternoon tinkering with Valerie and lazing in the sun. We take a walk and Michel (Solange’s husband) gives us sneaky snicket directions through the vineyards to La Redorte. The town is really charming, but quite quiet when we get there. There’s a slightly incongruously deluxe hotel which looks amazing, but perhaps La Redorte wasn’t quite ready for the uber glamour it exudes as it appears to be up for sale. We wander back in the evening sun, ready for food and collapso. Upon arrival back at Valerie we start cooking only to be kidnapped for the wine tasting - life is such a drag sometimes! We sample Michel and Solange’s selection of their produce, a variety of whites, reds and roses. They are all yummy and the other campers who have joined us all get stuck in with enthusiasm. We buy 5 litres of red for €10 and retreat to Valerie to salvage dinner and sample our purchase. Everything delish, we love French Passion! Thank you to our lovey hosts J


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