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Honfleur to La Suze Sur Sarthe via Ambrieres Les Vallees – Wednesday 26th-Friday 28th September


We leave Honfleur after a brisk walk around the Harbour in the morning sunlight. This is a place we should return to.

We are heading down towards Gorron in the Orne (a department of Normandy) where we have chosen a campsite to hole up in before we go on an appointment the following morning. Because of this commitment in the morning we are largely restricted to travelling during the day and prepping this evening. Thankfully, the campsite we are aming for has no bar. This can for once only be a good thing.
The weather had started off bright, clear and sunny, but as we get under way this changes to ominous dark clouds. The wind is also blowing a houley again. The journey, while tedious, passes without incident.

We arrive at the Le Parc de Vaux campsite and all seems nicey nicey, friendly young campsite woman installs us for €17 for the night including wi-fi, showers, electric etc. All is good. Two minutes later all is not good. We choose a nice pitch only to have a friendly Brit FCVT come springing out of nowhere (like a garden gnome come to life) to warn us not to park there as they’d got stuck in the mud there earlier and had all manner of trouble extricating themselves. We thank him and move on. Upon trying to plug the leccy in we discover that it doesn’t appear to be working, mr gnome magically materialises again and informs us that only a handful of hook ups are working, we duly trail our cable up hill, through hedges and down dale to secure our supply. This is not going particularly well so far. We settle in for a bit of wi-fi nerding only to discover that it doesn’t work. One has to sit near reception to secure a signal. This we duly do and last all of ten minutes before the heavens open. We give in, damp and cold and wet, hot showers and comfort food are needed. Sadly it is not to be. The hot water supply is busticated, cold showers only. This is really starting to take the piss; does nothing work here??? For €17 we have basically secured ourself a parking spot that we may or may not be able to get out of, electricity that needs an expedition to find, wi-fi that doesn’t work unless you’re pretty much sat on campsite woman’s knee, and cold water. We’d be better off in a Mcdonalds car park. It appears we have found ourselves at campsite calamitous. Noush has had enough and marches up to reception to complain only to find that it’s closed. Quel surprise. Thwarted we hunker in the van and sulk for a bit. Thankfully somebody finds a phone number and rings up to complain about everything being broken. Next thing you know we spy the watery beam of a torch attached to which is some little French dude who is padding round in the dark and the rain trying to fix the fact that all the electrics on the site are down and apologising for the lack of hot water. Bless him. Four star camp site my arse.

Anyone relying on the French to provide some lighting in the bog beware. We have noticed on countless occasions the amount of toilets and sanitary blocks where the lights don’t work, or there is some strange way of coaxing them on. What is this masonic manoeuvre we need to perform to get the lights on? Maybe the French like the whole experience of performing their ablutions in the dark? Or perhaps it’s because some of the toilet blocks leave so much to be desired, especially the Turkish hole in the floor jobbies, that it is a visual assault and is deemed off putting? Either way, we have both earned our Masters (or Stripes!) in ‘Brail Ablutions’.

Thursday 27th September

Calamity campsite finally comes good in the morning with lights that work and hot showers. The appointment we have is for late morning, despite this Noush is, as usual, slow to greet the day. After much strong coffee we get going. As we leave the Campsite we drop into reception to ask if campsite woman would kindly print off some spreadsheets and things for us. Luckily for her she agrees to do so, thereby avoiding the dressing down of her camping career and an “accidental” poo tank emptying incident in the drive.

All smiles we zoom off to our appointment. Hours later and after what we think has been something of a success (updates on this will no doubt follow later, but for the moment we are staying shtum) we head off towards Le Mans.

We are aiming for La Suze Sur Sarthe (12kms south west of Le Mans) where Jon knows a camping area. In fact this has been the campsite for the numerous trips to Le Mans, enough said on this, there may be Gendarmerie reading. An hour and a half later we have past Le Mans and arrived at La Suze. The Aire is packed surprisingly, but we manage to squeeze Onzo in. The deal here is for €3 you get 24 hrs parking, with water and electrical hook up. Nice. All is going well until we have the misfortune to meet Aire Mayor.

Aire Mayor is the sort of officious droopy trout mouthed hunch back that can usually be found stumping around and sticking his big red-veined bulbous nose into other people’s business. The very minute we approach the hook up, cable in hand, he lurches over waving a finger in peremptory admonishment. We are advised in no uncertain terms that we aren’t allowed to plug our cable in, despite the fact that there is an available plug right there, right under his oh-so- bulbous nose. The rudeness with which he has greeted us renders us literally speechless and he leaves us somewhat aghast as he stumps back to his camper. Arsehole. We think about digging our heels in but agree we can survive quite easily on the 12 volt battery for the night and get hook up in the morning when others leave. Let’s hope Aire Mayor is one of the first to go.

View from our spot at La Suze sur Sarthe camping Aire. Beware Aire Mayor!



To get over the shock of meeting Aire Mayor, we decide to go the Bar St Louis (frequented in Le Mans visits) for some wi-fi and a quick livener. Jon gets recognised by the owner (some nervous moments pass) before smiles prevail and a round or three of pressions restore our humour. Some time later we creep back to the Van, trying hard not to disturb Aire Mayor before turning in.

The bar, scene of much nefarious behaviour on previous Le Mans visits (see below!)



The adjacent campsite (sadly closed), scene of much nefarious behaviour on previous Le Mans visits...