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Mornas to Montelimar Sunday 16th September


We wave goodbye to Centre parcs campsite after a quick coffee, using the showers and being besieged by flies – never seen so many.  We consulted the book of occasional fiction and decided that we will make a short hop to Montelimar, about 50kms further north.  According to the book there is a cheap and (from the picture) rather pleasant wooded camping car area. This is good news.

Montelimar Aire. Onzo is obscured from view, sadly!



The journey is for once trouble free and seems to take no time. We are travelling in a low lying area surrounded on all sides by steep mountains, almost like being in a volcanic basin. The weather is clear, hot and unlike yesterday, free from the hurricane that hindered our progress. All is good with the World.

We arrive at the aire without mishap, no getting lost, no issues and the aire is every bit as lovely as it looked on the picture. Unfortunately though, the cash point thingy where you pay (a whole €4 for 48hrs) is broken. This, of course, is dreadful news, we are forced to take ourselves out for lunch as consolation.
Montelimar is a pretty place, tree lined boulevards with busy cafes and restaurants all over the place, all pleasantly full and chatty and every now and then a glimpse of the medieval castle Chateau Adhemar, the turrets and towers of which appear unexpectedly at the end of the old quarters narrow streets (can’t escape all this medieval-ness it would seem). 2kg of mussels for lunch leaves us a bit over-satiated and we go for a wander in the park opposite the restaurant to try and recover. The park, however, is not your average park. Part one involves a small and slightly incongruous display of cars and, around the corner, part two involves a weird and unexpected menagerie.

This is not a park as we know it. There is no pissed bloke on a bench or paths with landmines of dog crap. No graffiti or over spilling bins. Instead we get Horses, Chickens, Carp pool and Peacocks. All in a small provincial French Town. We wander round and enjoy the sights, barely able to move after the Moules Frites. On our way back to the camping area (after a swift beer at the local Cuban bar?) we spot the local Medieval Chateau. Further inspection required. This involves a rather steep ascent that Noush hadn’t factored into the Moules ingestion equation, but we both agree that it really would be rude not to.

The Castle is very, very old (Medieval innit) You can wander the ramparts for free which is great, what is not so great is that officious-let-you-in-man (does he think he’s guarding the Holy Grail or something?) neglects to mention that said ramparts are not for the faint of heart or, to be more exact, fat people. What follows is an odd game of chicken..who will stop first and flatten themselves against the edge? Can you sidle past without getting squashed? Will there come a point where there is no option but to reverse? Is this a polite person approaching or will you get unexpectedly taken out by some weird Chateau priorite a l’adroite rule? The views are worth it and we escape unscathed, albeit a bit more expert at breathing in than we were before.



After ramparts and breathing in we stagger back to the camping area for a planning session for tomorrow. Once complete (the exercise is similar in strategy to pinning the tail on a Donkey) we decide to check on Onzo’s latest ailment, a minor oil leak. With bonnet up and Noush under the van, Mr Belgian dude opposite comes over to check everything is ok and offer assistance in all things mechanical. We politely brush the offer off: not knowing that he has in fact built (from scratch) a 9 tonne motor home extraordinaire. After a brief consultation where he casually informs us we have overfilled the Van with oil they decamp to our pitch for one or two beers. Belgian dude and his wife, Hanneke and Peter (very nice peoples) end up staying for some time whilst we discuss everything from motorhomes to the political downsides of mass immigration.

After much talk about how you get up hills in a nine tonne van (slowly) and how on earth he managed to convert an ex coca cola van into anything habitable we are invited over to have a nosey around. Officially Peter is a bit of a genius. Hanneke has already informed us that if Peter sees something he can then recreate/build it, but we are in no way prepared for the interior of this motorhome. The first thing we see is a solid oak dining room table, yes really (probably a sold ninth of the total weight of their vehicle!), but then we notice everything else that Peter has magically made and built in. There’s, a slide out flatscreen tv, an entire built in kitchen (Noush’s kitchen units from Sheffield wouldn’t have covered half of the wall space), including a fridge freezer, an oven, a microwave, a normal functioning sink (FCTVs will know about the ridiculousness of normal camper kitchen taps), the ceiling is so high (think Georgina mansion) that Hanneke has to use steps to get to the overhead kitchen cupboards, this thing is enorme! There’s also a vast storage area hidden behind and underneath the two (yes two) double beds and the built in wardrobes. They’ve got 600 litres worth of liquid storage, it defies belief. Oddly though, they don’t have a shower…but to think that Peter made it, alone at home, in 8 months. It’s mad and brilliant. Much as we love Onzo and he’s our hero, it is with a certain degree of hesitancy that we ask if they’d like to come and have a look round. Hanneke leaps at the chance and Noush plays the only ace in the pack: ‘check out our shower’! Hanneke is graceful and generous. Oh the great unwashed, our only card to play.

We retire to our final box of red wine (Peter drank the beer) and go in search of that park bench, just to make us feel at home. Tomorrow is another day.