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Thursday 24th April Reynac to Montfort Vitrac via Roque Saint Christophe, Sarlat, Beynac and La Roque Gageac

We have a relatively leisurely start today as we are camped at the bottom of Fortresse Reynac, which we haven’t seen yet, but it doesn’t open until 10am, leisurely breakfast, coffee, siiii. We flash the dogs up by Prehisto park again, but the walk takes longer than expected as Jonboy is caught short with a large case of ‘out of hoops way’. Eek. When one is given such a dramatic warning one should pay attention and go back to bed and not attempt ANYTHING at all for the whole day. We do not heed however….

Noush is left to explore Fortresse Reynac alone while Jon recovers.

The Fortresse is amazing; previously only open to academics for scientific research it has only been open to the public since 2006 having been bought by a Perigord residence with a penchant for architecture and troglodyte caves. With a whole array of artefacts and period history; its weird and wonderful rooms hewn out of the rocks, its defences and its uses over the years are all tied up behind the amazing façade. Spooky and surreal it more than lives up to its aura of impenetrable mystery. The exhibition currently on show displaying various implements of torture is not for the faint hearted, albeit fascinating.

The evolution of Reynac from medieval to a bit more recent..



And then it’s off to La Roque Christophe. Oh how we wish we had heeded Jon’s prescient bottom….

Nous sommes dans la merde. We are officially stuck…. Route barre, overhanging rock, no turning place. 2000 tourists watching.. EEEEKKKKK…
The cause of our problems is he one and only spot where we can attempt to turn around…

Unbeknownst to us it’s soft, there’s a drop off and it’s insant… ah.. we’re stuck. Wheel spins, 20000 years of prehistoric ground nicely mounded behind the front wheels and cue a tourist group of friendly americans who come to offer advice and push our..erm.. 4 tonne van out. Several hundred people watching from the perfect gallery view of La Roque Christophe itself. EEEEEEK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

With no swearing, no effort and no advice whatsoever, we of course manoeuvre ourselves out quick smart. There is no applause from the gallery, nobody takes a bow, American feet aren’t kissed (In actual fact God bless them, they were heroic and wonderful). We are super casual as we drive nonchalantly off, pride completely intact and no concerns about Valerie’s heath at all. J


We are in urgent need refreshment and so high tail it all the way to Sarlat to lose ourselves in the beautiful city and regain some sort of equilibrium.

Sarlat.... we love...





Zoom on to Beynac... none shall pass, snotty overpriced aire at Roque Bageac, entire place being dug up. Probably usually quite pretty….





Finally find Montfort Virac an oasis of calm, isolation, tranquillity. With a big entrance, turning space and flat parking. Job done. 

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