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Wednesday 16th April Saumur to Le Grand Pressigny Via Chinon and Loches

The day dawns fair – again!! With aire mayor nowhere to be found and despite the fact that we suspect he might be the actual mayor we set off. Our first destination of the day is Chinon, another medieval town where we intend to breakfast and sightsee. Note to all campers about trying to park in Chinon…. just don’t!! It’s wonderful from a distance but seems to be populated by the rude and those inept at driving. Streets are narrow, no campers shall pass. We slink across the river, everybody’s tales between their legs and admire from afar. It looks beautiful from a distance, but perhaps the impassable fortifications should have given us a clue! The fortress is 400m in length and its surrounding wall dates from the 10th century. Truly none shall pass! We breakfast on the (far) bank of the river and consider ourselves defeated and zoom on towards Loches.



Another medieval town, Loches is amazing. We had hope to stay here for the night, but the fair is in town and the aire is situated a little unsafely shall we say. Loches is too good to abandon though, so we park up and take a look. It’s just beautiful and dripping with history everywhere.  Evidently this is the place where all the best Kings came on holiday. Apparently all the Kings of France have used the Chateau as a holiday home; one half dates from the 14th century and the other half from the 15th Century (why did they need to expand it?).  As the residence of Charles VII it became known for its decadent feasts held for his mistress (Ah. All becomes clear).


In the park there are the remains of a Sequioa tree (spot Jon).


The tree was struck by lightning but the three forks remaining were preserved…


We return to Valerie, walking along the river banks. At this point Moo spies his first ever fish. The water is shallow and clear. Moo is transfixed. And looks very perplexed. Fight or flight? He decides a dignified retreat is the best bet and tries to look super casual as he walks away. Around the corner he spies a more familiar looking piece of water, not transparent, just weedy, reedy, safe… no fishes here and in he sploshes for a drink. Clearly some fishy beasty is lurking under the reeds after all; Moo evidently startles it and the dog leaps out of his skin, water up nose, ears flat, eyes looking every which way -  total whack attack. After a moment he realises that he’s fine actually. Thank you.  Then a dead reed breaks off from the clump and lands across his nose. Moo turns himself inside out and scarpers for the van. Dignity be damned.

Everyone is back in the van in one piece and we decide to try our luck at our First French Passion which looks to be down the road. French Passion is a scheme operated purely for Camper Vans by French business folks who have the space and the inclination to allow campervans to stay on their land for a night. It’s free and you get to know the locals, sample the local produce if you’re lucky and enjoy a slice of ‘real France’. Staying on a farm, lovely French hosts, lovely countryside, peace… what could be better? Off we toddle. We drive straight past. We know it said “farm” in the book, but the animals were closer to our parking spot than we’d anticipated. Norm would have barked, Moo would have probably gone to bed with a full belly. Eek.

There’s an aire not too far and we decide that we’re going there. Even if it’s horrendous, that’s where we’re staying tonight. Thankfully it turns out to be fab. Sunny, small secure private park with picnic benches, free hook up, showers (good ones too) and loos for the princely sum of €1 and a really charming and (guess what) medieval village just around the corner.
We wander up to the Chateau. Some of it has been converted into a prehistoric museum and the remains that are too far gone to restore hang precariously in the sky. Spot the staircase anyone?



Sadly the Prehisto bar in town only has two tables outside in the sun, both of which are occupied by scary French types with an empty espresso cup who clearly won’t be moved. We retreat to Valerie and showers and air(e) drying in the sunshine J

P.S. Just realised that Easter is this weekend and not last weekend as previously supposed. This major error makes even Moo look good today. Woops. 

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