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Greve in Chianti


After a lovely wander around Greve last night, very picturesque and not the British ‘Chiantishire’ we had been dreading, we awake to moody skies which quickly resolve into torrential rain and thunder. It appears we have not escaped your typical British bank holiday weather after all. Chiantishire is alive and well. Grr.  We have a sausage and egg breakfast under the black clouds as a salute to Britain. Still, it’s a welcome relief not to be overheating. This, however, does not last long. The clouds clear around noon and we’re back to furnace territory. In the cool and quiet of the morning and with the car park to ourselves we have achieved nothing (bloody Lidl), but even with the sun showing its face and folk arriving to take advantage of free water we’ve got poo things to attend to. It shall and must be done.
The very minute we start Onzo half the world seems to arrive. We get as far as emptying the poo tank (Onzo breathes the relieved sigh of  “prunes really do work” type),  but there is evil-ness afoot and the tank needs some assistance in the form of serious chemical action and a prolonged stop over the manhole drain. It simply isn’t meant to be. Too many people and this is not a job for public viewing. We retreat to the edges, small and hidey-like and un-start Onzo. We decide to wait them all out. This proves time consuming. Old dude turns up (for the third time??) in an old Italian post office van with a 100 litre water tank in the back which he proceeds to fill up for the next half hour (hose pipe ban anyone?), suspension groaning and without so much of a nod of apology off he trundles. Then some odd looking vagrant gypsy types arrive and park up next to fountain thingy and hang a bucket off the tap. The bucket hangs there, empty. They do nothing. We are mystified until about twenty minutes later the rest of their cavalry turn up, literally. Five horses (with a distinctly healthier chromosome count than their riders) pitch up for the longest watering/lunch stop on the planet. Will they never leave? The horses slurp from the bucket, the gypsies of unidentifiable and indistinguishable gender slouch around. We continue to hide in Onzo. FCTVs turn up, do their thing and leave. We remain, paralysed, waiting for our moment. Poo fail and the complexities of the tank continue – how hard can it be?

We’ve given up on poo for the day (again). The tank is full of chemicals and hopefully doing its thing. We’re off down the Blake for a pint of Farmer’s, ta very much (Noush’s old local, finest ale known to man). Just goes to show you shouldn’t joke about such things. Ale? In Chianti? And not just Ale either.. We find ourselves in a nondescript bar in Greve, bear in mind this is the heart of some of the finest wine producing land on the planet and they serve pale ale. That’s odd. More so is their range of Cider. On full view behind the bar are bottles of Cornish Orchards produced and bottled 1 mile outside Looe in a place called Duloe. Taken into consideration that Jon has lived in Looe for nigh on the last decade and bought his apple juice from Duloe, this is weird indeed! Back to the van to escape such peculiarities. Gentle evening and early night, yawns and peace. Nice.


Lucca to Greve in Chianti via Florence - Saturday 25th August


Today’s plan went

Visit Montecatini Terme. Admire hill top town.
Move onto Pistoia (where the pistol was invented)
Start to enjoy rolling Tuscan countryside
Overnight.

What actually happened

Breakfast in Lucca
Lunch in Florence
Evening drinks in Greve in Chianti (in the heart of Chianti Country, um, as the name might suggest).

Bizarre sighting of the day…

On the outskirts of Lucca we spotted a UK plated London black cab* (yes really) with what appeared to be a fare in the back!

Cab rank Euston Square London (earlier the previous day)

>Yes guvnur, where to?
>Lucca please
>Where?
>Y’know, Tuscany?
>OK squire, hop in.

*no alcohol or illegal drugs were involved in this sighting.

So, why did the plan get so derailed?? Once again, the books have lied. The maps lie, the campsite guide book lies, the Italian guide book lies, the sign posts lie. The Italians can’t even give verbal directions without a bit of fiction thrown in let alone get it down on paper. Lies!! (Except Mother’s old copy of the Rough Guide, which is always spot on).  Anyway, we’re trying to follow this tour, through the rolling hills of Tuscany, but we seem to have been misled somewhat: there are, as yet, no rolling hills: what we do have are flatlands and industry and about a million billboards per mile. It is not so very nice. We admire Montecatini from a distance as we cruise on past, we attempt Pistoia where the ‘finest examples of Tuscan architecture’ are more akin to Brixton tenements, Prato looks so bad that we hop off the Florence Road onto the Prato slip road and hop directly back on, sharpish. We didn’t even have to do a lap of the roundabout to think about it. We are upon Florence before we know it. Florence does not like Camping Cars. Parking is impossible, even more so than usual. When we eventually do find somewhere a hustler tries to rip us off. We bail. Eventually we get lucky and give ourselves 2.5hrs worth of parking to do whistle-stop tour of Florence. Culture at its quickest! So, of course we went straight to a bar for a leisurely beer and some lunch first. One must prioritise these things.

Florence:

Expensive lunch. Check.
Duomo, Campinile, Battistero. Check.
All the important Piazzas and Palazzos. Check.
Most expensive ice cream in the world on the Ponte Vecchio. Check. (€15 for 2)

Florence: Veni, Vidi, Vici. Sort of… sorry Florence, we probably didn’t do you justice, but thanks for a lovely afternoon nonetheless (and apologies to Ocky, we never quite made it to those gardens, car park fear won out, but thanks x).





In epic heat, (this has to be the hottest yet) we leave Florence and head for the hopeful calm of the Chianti trial. We leave feeling slightly concerned that the Tuscany we had in mind doesn’t exist anymore. We needn’t have worried. 20 minutes later we are on the correct road and things are beginning to look like we imagined. Despite some more tragic sign posting (sign post says right, 200yds later T junction says left) we find ourselves in Greve in Chianti. Camping spot Aire  located first time (this is a first) and it’s perfect: free, quiet, drinkable water fountain thingy (checked with Italian FCVT it was drinkable ‘Certo’!) and we can.. erm… empty things. We celebrate with Lidl’s finest.

Lucca - Friday 24th August


Having failed to find somewhere free to park last night we have sucked up the cost of a rather nice campsite: Il Serchio. €20 for 24 hours, but the shade alone makes it worth the price, plus free hook up and we’re within walking distance of the town, ideal (and a Lidl round the corner that sells wine at €1.69 a bottle, EEK!). There seems now to be a new trend amongst fellow camper van types (FCVTs – remember them?) Gone are the addiction to chocks, now it seems the humble dressing gown is this weeks ‘in thing’. Whilst sat supping some local plonk we watch virtually every other person toing and froing from the shower block dressed in dressing gowns, despite the 35 degree heat. Even blokes. One poor chap was sporting a pink number – surely this wasn’t a voluntary decision? Another trend we certainly won’t be getting involved in (Noush disagrees, but that’s just cos she’s got a swishy little silk number that she likes to parade about in).
The rather unprepossessing outskirts of Lucca are thankfully not representative of the Lucca that you find within the city walls. Officially we love Lucca.

After a brief visit to the tourist office (where we find out about a concert in one of the squares this evening that oddly they didn’t seem to know about – go figure, and you had to pay nearly a Euro to visit the toilet – hardly a welcome is it?) we venture into the winding narrow depths of the walled city. After our recent experiences we expected Lucca to be packed, but whilst it’s pleasantly buzzing the place actually seems quiet. There are old shops that have been there for generations: tiny places selling niche local products and wonderful mysterious things. After escaping back to the campsite to shelter from the scorching heat that seems to be trapped and still within the city walls we venture back in the evening. We wander through the boho district where flickering flames in sconces throw shadows along the high stone walls. The doors of the art and fabric shops are open and welcoming and the owners stand about, drinking wine, talking to each other and generally pretending to work. Rounding one street corner we surprised to stumble on 3 guys (who I’m sure were shop owners) knocking out blues tunes!

We find the Debussy concert, thankfully this actually is taking place (fictional light show in Epernay anyone?), rather disappointingly it is inside, albeit in the rather grand Place Ducale. Poor Mr Organiser man is zooming around getting it all sorted at the last minute (so Italian!). Feel rather guilty opting for Debussy over Puccini, being as Puccini was born here, but what can you do? Debussy was free.. Lovely concert, amazing sax player (started off like a big breathy gobbling fish, but soon settled down) and a beautiful piano solo sets us up for a romantic stroll back through the town, past the blues players on the corner and finally to bed. Lucca has been kind to us indeed. 



Marina di Pisa to Pisa (city) Thursday 23rd August


Up early to try and get to Pisa before the heat of the day becomes unbearable. Early start is slightly foiled by what we should have guessed would be a predictably late bus arrival. Italy and timetables anyone? However, our Inglese ignorance stands us in good stead as we don’t quite manage to work out how to buy a ticket. We are deposited in Pisa and instantly we love it. It’s peaceful, quiet, user friendly and utterly enchanting. Every twisty mysterious street is cool and breezy and lined with ancient peeling buildings of old old stone and ornate balconies. It’s just perfect. We wind our way towards the Tower, Cathedral, Baptistry and Camposanto. Where are all the teeming hoardes? Why is everything so reasonably priced? Still, isa not so much of a pisa to have it so peaceful. Ahem.

The first church we go into is the Santa Caterina. The gloom of the inside of the church instantly sets the tone after the bright sunshine and you are transported back into ancient history. The weight and solemnity of the place settle onto your shoulders and the simplicity of the place gradually peels back to reveal a surprising complexity of design. The giant original ceiling beams are carved and painted and as your eyes adjust, more and more is revealed. It’s beautiful, but when you suddenly find yourself at the field of miracles and are confronted with the intricacy of the buildings there you wonder that two such buildings could be in the same city.
The Baptistry is at first so simple after the expectations its façade raises. But inside, like Santa Caterina, its complexity is slowly unravelled. The full glory is only realised when the acoustics are awoken by the sound of a man’s voice gently singing three notes. Moving, haunting, astonishing. The Cathedral is just something totally alien to anything either of us has experienced before. It as a visual assault on the senses. Everywhere your eyes try to settle there is something above, behind, beside, beneath,  to tempt them away. There is so much that it is hard to focus and harder still to comprehend how a human mind could conceive of something so intricate and complex. It is so humbling that it almost leaves you feeling like you’ve stepped into something to big for a mere mortal mind to understand. While beautiful it is almost a relief to step back into the simplicity and comfort of the winding streets.





And now to Lucca!

Marina di Carrara to Marina di Pisa: Wednesday 22nd August


Awake very early due to the M6 (i.e. 6.30am) and decide to go around the corner to steal some water from the communal fountain. What we have realised about Italy as compared to France is that facilities for Campers are few and far between. We are low on water so this appears to be the best option. This process involves parking close by and sneaking over with the solar shower bag, which holds approx. 10 litres, filling it as casually as possible and emptying in the tank. When we get there there’s quite a few folks milling about. Not ideal. Still, I go over for the first fill which gets quizzical looks, not helped by a massively uncoordinated bambi-legs-akimbo flip flop slip on the wet floor. Now everyone is looking. Most people use it to have a quick drink and I’m filling a massive bladder like object! I return for the second and all goes well. On the way back to the Van I give all the onlookers a salute of jubilance and defiance. This, it turns out is a mistake. When all is done I realise I’ve dropped the rope that is attached to the handle of the shower (so you can hang it). It can only be next to the fountain. So I have to endure an embarrassed walk back and low and behold it is right there. I must have dropped it whilst I was attempting to stay upright during the flip flop fail. I can feel the stares as I walk head stooped, back to the Van.
Scene of fountain flip flop fail:



After a quick swim and another free shower (yes, weird guy was there again, why???), we get some coffee down and decide to make a break for Pisa. We’ve got somewhere all lined up, nice trip along the coastal path and then some piney woods next to the sea in a pretty little nature reserve. Once again, this does not go according to plan. The pretty little coastal road turns out to resemble nothing so much as Delhi-on-Sea and on a busy day. The traffic is madness, the weird beach resorts by the side of the road are totally packed already (9.00am) and about a million people are employing every single manner of transport in the most inconsiderate and illegal ways possible. All in all it makes driving nigh on impossible and incredibly tense. Every metre gained is a triumph of not crashing the van, killing a mentalist on a scooter, flattening a mother and child on a bike or simply stopping right then and there in the middle of the road and slowly weeping. Prayers are sent to the gods that gave us our parking space in town, being in this madness is unbearable. We bail off the coastal road and get a zoom on towards the piney trees and beach please. Unfortunately this also fails. We arrive to discover that camper vans aren’t allowed. Sigh. About turn. Fortunately (at last!) we arrive at Marina di Pisa and find a camping car site, albeit quite busy, but at least we’re allowed in and made to feel welcome and normal by extremely helpful camper van reception man who is balm to our fraught souls. As a bonus, for a mere €15 we can stay and have cold showers and (AND, so excited!) empty the poo tank.  Cherry on the cake is that the beach is only a ten minute walk away, we can get a bus into Pisa rather than take Onz and apparently there’s some slightly drunk Italian office worker in the vicinity who (probably unbeknownst to him) leaves his internet connection free for use!  All is right with the world again.

We wander into town to find the beach and find that once again the place has a very un-Italian feel to it. It feels like a deserted a film set crossed with a once prosperous Mexican beach resort. Old faded, crumbling, once magnificent shuttered buildings line the beach road. Giant slabs of rock and marble line the edge of the sea that create super giant swimming pools. Perfect for a sheltered dip. The water was strangely super saline, we floated along on our backs, or even hovering upright, like weird human kelpy things. After basking on the rocks like a siren and her bewitched sailor we head back to Onzo and the campsite for freezing cold showers and hot spicey BBQ local sausages. Marina di Pisa so far is hitting the mark on all counts.


Tuesday 21st August


We awake to quite unbelievable heat and some degree of road noise similar to sleeping on the hard shoulder of the M6. This is offset by a swift coffee and a 3 minute walk to the beach for a morning swim. This is how to start ones day.. From the beach we have the distant view of Portofino and the Italian Rivera. Only here, at this time in the morning it is quiet. Another free shower and a brief altercation with a very strange bloke cleaning the beach and we return to the Van for what is definitely the most awful breakfast ever. Hard Italian bread and jam. (why can’t they make decent bread? Isn’t this one of the gastronomic centres of the planet?). I make a mental note to bring up the overly stringent budget at the most opportune moment.

Lazy day and more swimming makes everything better. We wander round town for a bit and notice the continuing phenomenon that is the presence of those oh so stylish Italians wearing hugely inappropriately sloganned t-shirts. Do they know what it means? Does that old dude over there with his ancient bicycle and wrinkly knees really think that his paunch is best displayed in a t-shirt that says “sex god”? Who knows… I decide to get stylish too and smash up the budget and buy new shoes, much to Jon’s bread and jam irritation (I’m sure he’s smiling on the inside..?). A romantic evening walk to the beach is somewhat interrupted by police cars with blaring incomprehensible loudspeakers, sirens and the sudden erection of road closed signs. All becomes clear as about forty lycra clad Italian cyclists all come zooming past, have we have stumbled into a local giro d’Italia? The peculiar thing is is that none of them seem to have the urge to win, half of them are on the phone and the other half look like they’re chatting to each other to arrange a quick post-race espresso. Eventually we do make it to the beach and it’s beautiful: quiet, twinkly and deserted. Shall be sorry to leave, but excited about Pisa tomorrow.


Sestri Levante to Marina di Carrara - Monday 20th August


Awake early after good night’s sleep in Gypsy car park. Thankfully nothing nicked. We decide to go to town early, to ensure getting a space and to go and have our first dip in the Med. As we leave the gypsy car park the place is buzzing already, but, against all the odds we find a space in town and have our first swim. Bliss. When we return to the van some 15 minutes later we find a parking ticket attached to the van. This was before 9am – have they been taking notes from the UK? Ah well, La Dolce Vita. Sigh. Need some supplies so we head to town for the nearest shop, our broken Italian results in the purchase of the heaviest most rock like loaf of bread, reputedly a traditional Pugliese effort, I think it’s more likely to be some alien meteorite. Breakfast sorted we leave and head towards the Autostrada, Onzo mountainous hills avoidance technique. 10.00am and 35 degrees. Eek!!

The autostrada proves a good decision, even though Onzo’s temperature begins to climb within minutes. Perseverance rewards us and we begin to descend from the Mountains and eventually rejoin the coastal road. The scenery changes from steep peaks to flatlands and alluvial plains. We are pootling along with the stark Alpi Apuane on our left and the coast on our right. We are aiming for Carrara, just inside Tuscany and the export capital of Marble for old Italy and still thriving today. We arrive and almost instantly find a shady parking spot, under some trees, it’s free and five minutes walk from the beach. A Tuscan miracle! The shade proves to be the biggest blessing of all though, with temperatures hitting the mid thirties by early morning. Everyone has furnace issues and freezing cold showers are a must. This results in us wandering around Carrara, which is very hip and cool, mostly looking like drowned rats. And still sweating. There are people zooming round on bicycles (millions of ‘em) and playing tennis… how are they not melting?! 


I honestly don’t recall ever being so hot. It is stifling, zero breeze. The town has a distinct Hispanic feel to it which strikes us as odd considering we are in Italy, (even we can’t take a wrong turn of such proportions can we?!).

The beach is accessible and empty in comparison to Portofino i.e spaces bigger than postage stamps upon which to park yourselves. There is a jetty of rocks where people are basking and diving in, we investigate these later in the afternoon and the rocks prove to be discarded slabs of the local marble! Sunbathing on these pure white luxuries of rocks, with the Med at your feet and the gleaming quarries of the mountains as a back drop. Life is nice. The sea provides much welcome relief from the searing heat. The piece de resistance though is the free shower that all beach goers can use after swimming. It is ice cold and very powerful. This is especially good as we are low on water and need to conserve. Thus far in Italy we have noticed that refilling opportunities are few and far between. This then will be our shower whilst we are here. I wonder what odd looks we will get tomorrow morning when we get in armed with the shower gel and possibly a razor!?

A wander around town in the evening sees us stopping for a drink and getting presented with an enormous plate of free nibbley things. That’s supper sorted then. And a little further down the road is Bar Mue (wish I could tell Moo I miss him). Bar Mue is a laid back affair, raggedy and charming, the sign is made out of old fruit crates (is it in fact Bar Mule??), the staff are dreadlocked and relaxed and Bob Marley remixes are accompanying our glass of white Tuscan plonk. Portofino shmino I say. Early night and massive contentment.

Cortemilia to Sestri Levante - Sunday 19th August


We leave mother’s after spending an inordinate of time packing up the van, where does all the stuff come from? We are supposed to be travelling light! Sad farewells are said, Mum and Moo left forlorn, for which I feel a bit guilty. But then our travels begin again and we head south for the coast. Some rather awesome driving from Jon sees Onzo navigating mountains and hairpins with relative ease and then we hit the coastal road and the Med lies before us in all its blue serenity. Or not. Never in the history of the world have there ever been so many people, scooters, cars and Italians all in the same place.

If we thought Annecy was busy, this takes the word to a whole new level. What is astonishing is that people are happy to sit that close to each other on the beach in what amounts to one of the (reputedly) swankiest reports on Italy. Frankly it resembles a refugee camp. All these poor people, I wonder where the red cross are? –  Does the level of the Med drop when everyone gets out?

We follow the coast road (undeniably beautiful) for approximately 25 kms and there isn’t one car parking space that hasn’t been taken. Laybys, pavements, garage forecourts (I jest not), and those that have just abandoned their vehicles on the side of the road. We are left with no options, we have to carry on, there is literally nowhere to stop! We had aimed to stop in Savona, but ended up going all the way to Santa Margherita, where we found the last remaining parking space in northern Italy and went for a wander. Beautiful place, but claustrophobically full. Would love to come back off season, long weekend perhaps and not in Onzo, it’s just not geared up for camper vans. So anyway, we decide to risk the hill in the heat of the day, and we bail. Again. We carry on, we find a campsite, it’s full. We carry on further, still no parking, but lots of signs for campsites. Hopes are raised only to be very firmly and spectacularly dashed in the form of the most impossibly located poor excuse for a campsite in the world. Ever.  After navigating a single track, broken and rutted road we arrive in a mini shanty town of a campsite, populated by a slightly crazy old man and about fifty cats. You kind of expected the guy to have a slow Texan drawl and to grin at you whilst starting his chainsaw. Time to leave and quickly. Onzo can neither go forwards, nor back. We are on an inhospitable incline. There is no space. The trees are low and attacking the roof and the cats are closing in. We are in some trouble here. Tempers are fraying and troubled glances are exchanged, we’ve just got to get out, it’s as simple as that. Crazy old man lets us reverse Onzo pretty much on top of a tent in order to extricate ourselves and we get ourselves out of there as quickly as possible (at about 0.1km/h). Back into town and we find a weird gypsy car park type thing, Onzo the newest van there by about a hundred years. It’ll have to do, the sun is setting and we’re done in. BBQ is lit, BBQ dies. Resort to a quick beer, bed by 9.30. Day one touring in Italy, a sharp learning curve indeed. But still happy campers, as long as no one nicks Onzo’s wheels in the night…

Week commencing Monday 13th August

Hurrah!! House completion at last! We go and buy ourselves a new fishing rod as a celebratory treat. This is not easy to do in our limited Italian, but we get there in the end. Came away with a great rod, which will henceforth be known as Trotter. The vermeeze are for it now. Less so the fish though me thinks!

Wednesday sees a rather pleasing amount of money land in the bank, house sale complete! All is done. Thank god as the budget was looking rather unhealthy! Butter is back on the menu. We all head to Roccaverano, (is this place at the top of the world? Thankfully we didn’t go in Onzo) for a plate of meats and a cheeseboard and a bottle of the local red. Very gentle pleasurable evening. Everyone extremely content.

Thursday   

A quick, quiet drink together at the Nazionale turns into a rather more prolonged affair than anticipated as every single mad local that we have met decides to come and say hello. This is not a brief English ‘sorry to disturb’ hello, this is a “sit down, put drinks on the tab, refuse to shut up about self and never leave” type of hello. Jon seems alright with this. I, however, go from being amused, to becoming gradually more frustrated, before finally arriving at the simmering rage only usually associated with stubbed toes and long distance calls at a fiver a minute to customer services peopled by complete idiots (Santander in Bangalore are you listening?).  This of course only amuses Jon more, which of course results in me becoming silently apoplectic. Hours and I mean hours later, we finally get some alone time, by which time we’ve both been in the bar far too long, if you know what I mean, and our cosy intimate quiet drink is nothing but gobbledegook. Ah well. Such is life. Epic rage. Jon still smiling to think of it. It took me about 48 hours to calm down. I feel strong sympathy for Mount Etna.

Jon has invested in a tin hat for any further eruptions (cheap at the local market though). A wise purchase I feel. Medic, medic……


The weekend…

We are leaving on Sunday and Onzo preparations have gone into overdrive. He is spruced up, re-packed, supplies are on board, we are good to go! We’ve even managed to buy some more gas and a back up bottle of anti-freeze/coolant. The gas wasn’t too problematic, but there is a whole dark world of mystery surrounding coolant. Can you mix it? Do you have to drain it first? Will it really form a globulous mass and clag up your radiator if you get it wrong? Does it really improve performance? Does any of it really matter?? Does anybody actually know any of these things??? Apparently not. Even google is stumped. Eventually we form our own master plan and decide to consult local Fiat aficionados and try and purchase the Fiat recommended stuff after we’ve showed them what we’ve already got. Amazingly this plan is successful despite me asking for “anti-ice cream” at first. Sigh.

Mother has just cooked up an amazing final meal and tonight sees the ‘Sagra delle Nociole’ taking place in Cortemilia which involves celebrating all things nutty (we’ll fit right in!) and a huge fireworks display at midnight which we hope to take in from the top of Perletto, a fitting finale to our stay here. This festival lasts for two weeks, two weeks!! How many holidays do the Italians need??! Can’t say I blame them though, it’s meltingly hot and nigh on impossible to function. Hence for us tomorrow it’s down to the coast to Savona, to the cool of the Med, playing in the sea and sand between the toes, very excited!

A parting shot of us outside the Nazionale; goodbye and thanks to all the staff (Slime 1 has been promoted to lovely bar owner numero uno) and a shot of mother outside the church, bye bye Ma, thanks for your wonderful hospitality and a lovely time x





Sunday 12th August

News from Walter! After much head scratching Walter has sorted the window on the van and given it a good going over. Window and service complete, Onzo in very good condition apparently, huge sighs of relief this end. All for the princely sum of €70. Walter, bless you and thanks.

Walters’s garage was from a bygone era. The type of Garage you see in old scratchy film footage, or those faded pictures in books where peeling Cinzano prints adorn the walls. Everything was old fashioned, yet immaculate. Sun bleached Ferrari red shutters were pulled back to reveal tools in neat rows on the wall, even the oil spills had been scrubbed. You could imagine a group of men in shirts and trousers, probably a couple of them smoking. All in silence. Poring over the open bonnet of a scarlet Ferrari. Slightly puzzled expressions, tuning fork in hand. There’d most certainly be a pastis or a small glass of red wine perched on the work bench. No rush, everything considered at length. Any questions asked were answered, but eventually. Walter’s Father was one of those men.


Saturday 11th August


Today is market day in Alba, we have promised ourselves that we will go, so despite epic shab off we set. Mother is in alarmingly good form, we are not. Mother’s shab kicks in later to rather devastating effect, but as we mooch around Alba our senses are revived somewhat. The air smells of expensive things and also, oddly, chocolate, wafting from the Ferrero factory which is situated just on the outskirts. We had high hopes of being able to pick up an example of fine Italian tailoring in the form of a replacement shirt for Jon’s ever decreasing wardrobe at the market, (Noush guilt), but Alba doesn’t seem to understand the concept of reasonably priced clothing, so we leave, shirtless. We have however been successful in buying some clippers with which we intend to relieve Moo of most of his fur. This turns out to be a rather laborious process, how can one dog be so hairy? He seems pretty happy with the result though….




A quick trip to town in the evening (hair of the dog anyone?), is going very pleasantly until events take a rather weird and surreal turn in the form of Hans and Margherita..oh dear.

On the face of it two chatty swiss types who heard us talking English and were curious. So they sort of invite themselves over to our table and much small talk ensues. All quite harmless, or so you’d think. Early warning signs are some serious over-inquisitiveness and, rather more alarmingly, Nico standing behind them making obscure hand warnings that seem to imply ‘run away!’. He’s muttering something that I can’t catch, but Margherita graciously supplies us with the translation: “ He is saying for you be careful, for we like to make naked swim! Of course is not obligatoire, but you are very welcome”. Jon and I exchange glances. Is this serious? The evening progresses and nothing untoward occurs. Hans is like a very quiet twinkly skinny Santa claus, Margherita like a fairly mad artist of a certain age. We are lulled. Probably against our better judgement we accept the invitation to go back to theirs for a swim (not naked!), thinking that we can always just scarper if it gets creepy. So we follow them to their house in the hills, where all thoughts of scarpering are swiftly curtailed as the giant electric gates are locked behind us. Oh dear.

Hans then proceeds to produce some (fairly grim) food, and Margherita proceeds to talk non-stop for what feels like forever. Warning signs are getting bigger and darker in the form of talk of open marriages, naked swim, naked bath…this is very very bad. I even set the alarm on my phone while pretending to root in my bag so that it’ll sound like its ringing and we have an iron clad excuse to leave. The pool is even made to look enticing with glowy balloon type things, which Hans throws in, setting the scene… creepy! Enough is enough – time to bail and sharpish too. They remind us of the types who would perhaps being involved in some dodgy films. I don’t know of these films, but my mates have told me. Excuses made and we’re off. Thoughts of the gates not being opened and the Stephen King book Misery flash through my mind. We escape! Back to the safety of the hous, quick medicinal restorative before bed. We live to fight/swim another day. 

Friday 10th August

We visit the market in Cortemilia in the morning. The sense of community here is really underlined by this spectacle. The whole place is alive; every car parking space is taken, the bar is packed, friends and acquaintances catching up, no doubt business being done. I am forced to go for a haircut. Quite an experience it turns out to be. A gaggle of half a dozen people are gathered behind as I get a head massage before the main event begins. I catch the odd word as all eyes are on the ‘’Inglese’’ (English) having his haircut. Much merriment and laughter occurs, most of it over my head. All very pleasant nonetheless and made all the sweeter by having a beer to swig on from the bar opposite. This is the way to have the old wig seen to- audience and all!

The evening sees us go to a festival in a local town – Serole. €10’s got you entry, food and as much red wine as you could drink. (You can see where this one is going can’t you!?) After you’d tucked in all seated along trestle tables the main event started which involved a peculiar form of ball room dancing around a sizable room, all in time to a band. The ‘dance floor’ was in front of numerous rows of seats that were occupied by very serious and somewhat disapproving aged Italians. All the events on the floor were watched with a critical eye, occasional tuts and raised eyebrows. This was strictly come dancing meets Italian ancient custom. It felt oddly gladiatorial.

After this morning’s haircut I was keen to play a low profile (wore a hat and everything) and not attract any attention. Sadly this was hampered by having to cross the dance floor, past the baying hounds to reach the toilet. Quiver. I stood back to assess the best path through the sharked infested waters, but failed at base one. A tap on the shoulder and I was confronted by a middle aged Italian woman with perfectly coiffured hair. I recognised the words ‘’Inglese’’ and was then dragged off to the floor of death to perform for the baying masses. Following the dancing was impossible. Whilst being whirled to and fro (she was strong this one) I caught glimpses of headshaking and folded arms from the sidelines. Clearly I wasn’t a natural.



Oh the shame and I didn’t even get to visit the toilet afterall.  

One who shall remain nameless (clue - female) was epically drunk. Threw at least two pints of red wine on me and took home the most enormous amount of cake that was provided for dessert.

Van Fail 6 - Thursday 9th August


With great regret I report a further Van fail. Not so much the Van’s fault this time, but user error. Still, it qualifies. It’s the Van and it’s a fail.

It goes something like this. We set off for the shop (ok, well the bar really), all pre-flight checks are complete (this involves moving breakable things and stashing them safely before moving). Half way to the destination there’s an almighty crash. Nothing visible has malfunctioned or fallen off. What has happened now ffs!?? We stop in the nearest available layby and discover to our horror that the long window above the cab (next to the bed) has parted company with the Van, landed in the road and smashed. The reason why is immediately apparent. It was left open before leaving. School boy error. This is not great news.

The bad news is further compounded by the potential cost of replacement. New ones are not available, second hand only if you get really lucky and can wait indefinitely. Made to measure is an option, but they have to be made in the UK and the cost has the same effect on you as the first morning espresso.

Step forward Walter and Nico (fishing rod bloke from the bar). Local mechanic Walter (who is giving the Van the once over) says he can do the job providing we can get the window. We visit the window shop in town, suggested by him clutching the measurements. Closed until 26th August. At this point, dejected and desperate we decide to get a quick medicinal beer on board at the Nazionale to console ourselves. Then, lady luck shines on us again in the form of Nico, who just on cue rolls round the corner on his bike. We explain the problem and, of course, “is no problem’’. Upon walking into the Ferramenta (a smelting iron monger type place that also sells windows??) Nico demands that all work ceases and that our window is sorted ‘Subito!’ (this means ‘Immediately!’) We learn that this is Nico’s modus operandum. He says ‘Subito!’ and people leap to obey. Brilliant. The man is a star. Half an hour later we are in the possession of the newly cut, made to measure window.  He even rounded off the edges! Is there nothing this man can’t do??!

It turns out there really is nothing that Nico can’t do? Not only has he rustled up a fishing rod and a window within moments of being asked, but he has also successfully sourced a scooter for Noush’s mum and today, well, he found us vermeeze!



Vermeeze are in fact worms. We asked Nico which was the best bait to use for fishing in the Bormida and it turns out that vermeeze, along with mice, are  best. He then drags Noush off to the fishing shop, to purchase vermeeze and mice, which it transpires are worms and sweetcorn. The poor owner of the fishing shop had just closed up and was actually in his car, outside his shop, about to leave. Nico, one hand on the car door, insists that the man gets out of his car, opens his shop and sells us some vermeeze and mice, subito!! Despite the poor man’s protestations that he has closed for ten days and so everything is locked away, there’s no till, he can’t give a change, Nico is not taking no for an answer. Two minutes later, we are the proud new owners of some vermeeze and mice. Never mind Jim, Nico will fix it. He the man.

Cortemilia Wed 8th August


We find ourselves in a wonderful Italian villa situated in the hills a few kilometres away from the charming town of Cortemilia (in the Piemonte region, famous for its Hazelnuts amongst other things) and a short hop from the truffle mecca that is Alba. A trip to town involves small one track roads that run past the vines, hazelnut groves and fruit trees, hairpin after hairpin, views across the wooded valley, dropping you to the River Bormida. All in all this is a fairly spectacular place to be.

As is always the case, no town is complete without a decent bar and in this respect Cortemilia boasts the focal point that is the Nazionale. The owner is rather ingratiating to say the least, especially around the ladies (hence the nickname Slime 1) but he’s harmless and aside from that it’s a good place to sit and enjoy the cheap and plentiful wine.

The weather is scorching during our first few days. So much so that sitting outside is nigh on impossible for more than fifteen minutes at a time. To assist with the heat we employ the hose and our solar shower, which if filled with cold water and hung from a tree is bliss. Something about doing these things outside makes them more refreshing for some reason? Despite months of moaning about the British weather I admit to the occasional longing for an hour or two of rain, although I keep these sordid thoughts to myself.


On Wednesday evening we visit San Giorgio Scarampi, a hill top town with a wonderfully ornate chapel (San Antonio). The settlement is little more than a collection of houses which makes the existence of the chapel even more surprising. The views are just amazing.



We are here to enjoy some cold meats and wine in the small bar next to the Chapel.  The food and wine are fab, especially the local honey, not so the wasps and the Bar owner (Slime 2) – is there a trend developing here?! His efforts and receipt of the subsequent rebuff tarnish the night very slightly as we end up with a much higher bill than it should have been. Nevertheless a night to remember.

Faverges to Cortemilia (Italy) Monday 6th August

Great night’s sleep, but awake to crap weather. Stormy, dark and not overly warm. We have spotted a walk we want to do to a place called Seythenex which is a trek up a mountain to some cascades and grottes. This brings thoughts of waterfalls and swimming in ice cold pools which after yesterday’s heat would be bliss. After a trip to Carrefour to get breakfast and stock up (why is it impossible to find BBQ charcoal in French Supermarkets?) the weather is showing no signs of improvement, in fact it’s getting worse. Certainly not suitable for trekking up a Mountain in the foothills of the Alps in flip flops. We decide to give it until around midday before making our minds up. Deep down we both know it’s set in for the day. 11.30 brings on the decision. Time to go to Italy.


The weather remains dreadful, but we are in the foothills of the Alps, so the scenery is tremendously dramatic, trees clinging to vertical hills with impossibly located tiny chalets peeking out, mist and clouds cover the tops of the mountains and roll gently down to nestle in the valleys.


Albertville comes and goes and before long we are in the queue for the Frejus Tunnel. The queue snakes up a fairly steep hill and we are in it for over half an hour. Nervous moments pass as we have visions of Onzo letting the side down in the single lane contraflow. Thankfully Onzo comes through without the merest hint of a further Van fail. The nice people at the Tunnel peage relieve us of €50 (budget goes out of the window) and we make our way from France to Italy – Si.



Hello Italy! At the Italian end we arrive to bright sunshine and heat. Literally light at the end of the tunnel after what was the unfortunate weather in the Alps. The view is instantly spectacular, which Noush thinks is all part of a cunning plan on the part of the Italians to bamboozle you into taking the autoroute because you’re not paying close enough attention the road signs. A last second swerve across several lanes (we are excellent at adopting the local style!) at which no one bats an lash at, gets us off the autoroute and onto the teeny tiny rubbishly signposted alternative route towards Bardonecchia, Susa and Torino. Jonathan Keates described this area as “Alpine villages full of cretins and goitres and people who ate nothing but cheese”, we are concerned that we may never escape, but this is before we learn that all roads do not, in fact, lead to Rome, they all – all of them – lead to Torino. Onzo seems totally in his element and is zooming along quite happily, perhaps he knows he’s home? No more happy smiley faces on the speedo checks though, perhaps the Italians are all about red angry grr faces and randomly placed traffic lights to slow you down, personally I think the catastrophic signposts are enough to keep anybody at a steady 20km/h, map on steering wheel, totally lost.
We are now in the Italian Alps: hills rising vertically and plummeting to dramatic gorges, old forts hewn out of the rock and strategic villages littered everywhere, some with ski lifts rising to the sky. We can sometimes see the autoroute and it weaves its way, hanging in the sky, across the valleys, a feat of engineering indeed.   

We arrive at Torino remarkably quickly and then proceed to get lost as usual. This, however, is not our fault for once. Three maps on the go and not one agreeing with another, and sign posts that insist on only mentioning the smallest local hamlet rather than anywhere that might actually be on the map. Any map.
Eventually we adopt the local mentality and head towards Torino in the hope that this will actually take us south and away. The strategy pays off and we find ourselves on the right road, heading to Cortemilia. Si!!!

As is the norm, (as this is where Noush’s mum resides) we decide to toast our successful arrival in Italy and conclusion to the first part of the voyage with a visit to the local bar in Cortemilia – Nazionale. Liquid refreshement in the form of a cold beer is just what we need after roasting in the Van since we left France at 11.30. We have been hankering after a fishing rod since we left as we think it could be fun in the lakes and rivers we stumble upon. We ask this local dude in the Bar, Nico (this name will crop up again) who disappears and then reappears not ten minutes later (on his bike) with a rod and reel for us – how very random!

After a couple of beers we decamp to the house in the hills (can’t wait to sleep in a bed) and unpack for a week or so of chilling and fixing the Van. Within ten minutes we have broken the bloody rod. Tip fell off after being closed in the van window (sorry Nico). No fishing just yet then.

Food, wine and sleep follows soon after.

Annecy to Faverges


Our journey out of Annecy is slow – and now the cloud has gone, very hot. There are a couple of small towns on the map in-between Annecy and Albertville that we hope will prove suitable for a stopover. Initially we follow the lake. It’s just so pretty. Every part of spare grass has someone on it though– beautiful as it is I’m glad we are leaving. We both agree we need to come back to see this place at a quieter time (if there is one).

Eventually we stumble on Faverges, which has a camping car area. Despite the fact this place is tiny (think small English Town) the facilities are bigger and better than those in Annecy – go figure! Despite this consideration towards camping cars, in typical French style, they also throw in a little something to really sabotage the unsuspecting Brit. In this case it is oversized speed bumps; these things need a 4x4 or, better yet, a monster truck. Attempt one resulted in Moo nearly getting taken out by a cast iron pan that was heaved out of the cupboard by the impact. Not safe, you have been warned! We’re both knackered and hot so an early night is on the cards. The weather is cloudy and close, no air at all. A few glasses of wine and collapso occurs.

Nantua to Annecy


We attempt a bit of Autoroute for this part of the journey. This does not make Onzo happy. Fuel economy hits the deck and everyone is grumpy. No more Autoroutes for us! The drive to Annecy is uneventful. The grey cloudy weather begins to lift as we approach. We park up in a central spot with the intention of going to the Tourist Office to get the low down on parking. Just as we are about to leave I trip over Moo who is lying in one of his normal ‘convenient’ spots. Nasty twisted ankle is the result. A trip to the Tourist Office reveals there are two areas that cater for Camping cars. We go to the first one and it is full. Bearing in mind the number of tourists around at this time of the year we find it incredible that they only cater for 15 Camping Cars. We have visited tiny towns in rural France that have more and better facilities than this. So we journey to the next one which has loads of free spaces but is a located in one of the less salubrious parts of town more akin to a favela.

Annecy is quite lovely. However we may have made a bit of an error here. Last night they had their Festival du Lac. The place is heaving. Just walking the streets is nigh on impossible, particularly the narrower ones. It’s not just the sheer volume of people either. Cars, delivery vans and to top it all off the streets in their entirety are being hosed down. This does not add up to fun walking, which is a shame. After lunch (overlooking the Favela) we buy some beer and walk to the park on the edge of the lake. Stunning views but the amount of people is quite staggering. As for the lake there is barely a patch of water going spare for the amount of boats plying the water. A swift beer revives the senses and we decide that perhaps it is best to move on. We also decide a minor change of plan is called for. The remaining places we wanted to visit in the Alps can wait for another day. Instead we are going to head for Italy. There’s work required on the Van (albeit minor we hope!) and completion is getting close on the house. As we leave our decision is vindicated. The traffic leaving Annecy is unreal. Our aim now is to overnight and depending on the weather make our way to the Frejus Tunnel and wind our way to Italy.





Nantua Sunday 5th aug

Sunday brings no change in the weather. Dark clouds, drizzle but thankfully warm. Over the first buttock clenching coffee we decide to bail and head towards Annecy.
Before departure however, we decide to make the most of the lack of people up and about and attempt poo clear out. Since we started we haven’t a) worked out how to do it and b) wanted to (would you?) Now however we have no choice. We head the 50yds down the road with great trepidation. No one else seems to be awake so if we have an embarrassing fail we can scarper. Both of us are nervous as we reverse Onzo into the designated Camping Car service bay thingy.

The operation should be straight forward in theory. Underneath the van are two outlet pipes. One for grey water (camping car terminology there – smooth huh?) i.e. shower water and the other outlet is the dreaded pipe de merde. Clip on another pipe that attaches to a box the size of a large jerry can (approx. 30 litres) and Roberts your Dads brother – you’re ready to pull out the red pin that turns out the Tom Tit into the box. (Oddly pulling the pin out is how I imagine you’d feel when you lob a grenade and frankly not dissimilar in effect). A final glance between us, the knowing nod and we go for the pin. Reassuring sounds of unmentionables flowing from A to B signal success. But then, catastrophe strikes. Squirts (The irony is strong here) of nasty things are coming from the top of the poo box. It doesn’t take long for us to realise the holding tank in the van is considerably larger than the box. This is very bad. It’s raining and we are both effectively covered in shite. A brave hand shoots under the Van disconnects and the remaining effluent is deposited in the service bay (gazelle like leaps from us to avoid splashback!). Now however, we click like clockwork – the like of which only happens when you are in the brown and nasty. I go for the box and empty it down the designated waste hole and Noush is furiously hosing down the service bay. We fill the Van with water, take a dip in the lake to cleanse our souls and leave – quickly. Despite the minor catastrophe we are celebrating. The burden and mystery of the poo tank is solved. We and Onzo (who is considerably lighter) head for the AutoRoute to Annecy. Poo Success! Zoom!

Nantua Sat 4th August

FCTVs seem to have entered into some tacit competition to see who can have the biggest chocks and who can employ as many different coloured ones in one go. This is mystifying as the campsite is completely and totally level, yet still they persist! A certain smugness pervades the area around what is clearly the winning van. Onzo looks on with certain nonchalant unconcern.

We head off to the market with hopes that this time there will be a better showing than in Mensil. Thankfully this turns out to be the case, the market is excellent and quintessentially French.



Rows and rows of fresh fruit and veg, wonderfully unidentifiable meat and gloriously stinky cheese all assault the senses in the way that only French market produce can. We buy half the fruit stand for €7 and then smash the budget on two slivers of cheese which cost the earth. A quick drink in the bar opposite eases the pain somewhat.

Later on the weather closes in and once again we are caught in the storm. The lightning flashes seer the lake and the thunder reverberates round the valley, bouncing back and forth and coming ever closer. We batten down the hatches and have an early night.


Nantua Friday 3rd August

C’est un catastrophe!! It’s the law again! Sigh…  Why are the French so spritely in the morning? Surely they should drink their absurdly strong espressos and then spend the rest of the morning whimpering on the loo? Or hovering with ever increasing thigh ache and jelly legs above their hole in the ground thingy?
Anyway, law at 8:15 outside Onzo, buttocks bravely unclenched and demanding money. Noush mumbles some sort of incoherent such and such and the law leave, with money, but also promising to return later, how does that work? Clearly Noush needs to work on her morning charm technique.. (not possible, do not disturb.
Ever. Nuff said).
Weather so hot Friday passes with trips in and out of the lake. Drinking cold stubbies (why does the fridge work colder on the gas than the 240volts – tis a weird one) and watching the numerous fisherman. All local these dudes, flat French caps, miserable and smoking non stop. Not one of them caught anything whilst we were there. I put it to Noush that the fishing is a merely a way to get away from the wife. Relate are short on numbers en Francais me thinks.

They smoke so much that the local fishing shop is called the Smoking Fishermen. This brings me neatly onto a couple of odd name observations we’ve made. Firstly, some car company has named a small car a Duster! For real! Who passed this via the marketing board? Can you imagine going down the pub and chatting over the joys of Christmas when someone asks you what you bought the wife and you reply a Duster!! Could give the wrong impression in this sensitive age non? First prize though goes to the Café l’abbattoir in Bourg en Bresse. Brave, stupid or ingenious? And finally, mum, if your’re reading, the Restaurant Eglantine.

The evening brings some local mini (very mini) musical entertainment on the other side of the lake. The competition is fierce. One café has a stage with an extremely enthusiastic air drumming compere and the other café enlists the assistance of a willowy French and a dodgy microphone. Think Kate bush and Wuthering heights music video; she’s willowing about relentlessly syncopating to air drumming compere. It’s cacophonous but all quite fun. The audience consists of stoned teenagers on mopeds, bossomy women with a hundred children hanging of them and the occasional typical old French man who can successfully gently collapse off his chair with a certain panache. Local flair is very much alive and kicking.

Nantua – Thursday 2nd August

After the arduous climb Nantua was like an oasis. The small town nestled in the valley with dramatic high cliffs on all sides. The lake was aqua marine and looked extremely inviting. On arrival we quickly established that the book of lies (the camping car guide) had actually called this one correctly. After a brief moment of indecision we decide to go to the parking and overnighting area on the other side. (Still only a 10 minute trek into Town though). This turns out to be a good call. There is room for 15 or so campers and we get a slot. A little squashed in but the view was jaw dropping. The lake was not 20ft from the back of the van. We quickly decide that weather permitting we will stay here for a few days.


FCVT's are performing as normal. Extremely close proximity to the others allows us to further study the behaviour of this strange being. More on this later.

Jon and Moo quickly settle into life on the lake. Moo has some slight issues regarding people getting into the water without his consent and spends his entire time on red alert, ears pricked, awaiting the latest splash. On hearing anything that remotely sounds like someone getting in he’s on the case like the Hoff in his finest red bikini moments. Moo to the rescue! Neighbouring campers amused, fishermen not so much.




Unfortunately Moo was not on hand when Jon was attacked by Nantua Nessie. Oh for a fishing rod that could have caught the thing! Jon and Nessie both come away, equally startled, equally unscathed. Moo disgruntled to have missed out.

The evening brings us our first encounter with ‘Brits on tour’ fail 1. Their ice breaker was to ask if they could BBQ Moo, followed by a ‘bless you’ on hearing Noush’s full name (Anouska). Noush at this point somewhat annoyed. What follows is an interlude of such painful one-upmanship, excruciating chippy Brit chat and general rudeness and ignorance that even Onzo has got his hackles up. Thankfully they leave the following morning, Jon and Moo say polite goodbyes, Onzo and Noush decide to plead the fifth. 

Bourg en Brasse to Nantua – Everest fail

Imagine the steepest hill you have driven up. Then times it by ten. Then imagine whilst crawling up the bloody thing you see a group of blokes from Nepal in a camp before the next day’s arduous climb (overnighting Sherpas anyone?). I’m sure I saw Donkeys tethered up and smoke lazily coming off a camp fire. Maybe they’re waiting for the weather to clear? Either way this was a steep hill and it went on for miles – I jest not. Needless to say Onzo wasn’t happy and overheating occurred to the point where we nearly ended up looking like two people from Pompeii. ONZO STOP!! But not in a good way. No bar, no wifi, just a very unhappy temperature gauge. Fortunately the fridge is still working, so we stop and have a beer and contemplate being stuck on a hill forever.
Jon decides to walk the hill to see if the thing ever ends. Noush, Moo and Onzo all watch on in overheated admiration as flip after flop Jon treks into the unknown. Turns out the hill does, eventually, end. 400 yards later. Bloody thing. Always round the next corner, thankfully in this case it proves to be true. Onzo zoom! Everest is crested, the sleeping sherpas are left behind, Onzo cools down, and zoom zoom down the hill to the view of a sparkling aquamarine lake and about ten garages carefully situated to prey on the motorised victims of an attempted Everest ascent.