We
find ourselves in a wonderful Italian villa situated in the hills a few
kilometres away from the charming town of Cortemilia (in the Piemonte region, famous
for its Hazelnuts amongst other things) and a short hop from the truffle mecca
that is Alba. A trip to town involves small one track roads that run past the
vines, hazelnut groves and fruit trees, hairpin after hairpin, views across the
wooded valley, dropping you to the River Bormida. All in all this is a fairly
spectacular place to be.
As
is always the case, no town is complete without a decent bar and in this
respect Cortemilia boasts the focal point that is the Nazionale. The owner is rather
ingratiating to say the least, especially around the ladies (hence the nickname
Slime 1) but he’s harmless and aside from that it’s a good place to sit and
enjoy the cheap and plentiful wine.
The
weather is scorching during our first few days. So much so that sitting outside
is nigh on impossible for more than fifteen minutes at a time. To assist with
the heat we employ the hose and our solar shower, which if filled with cold
water and hung from a tree is bliss. Something about doing these things outside
makes them more refreshing for some reason? Despite months of moaning about the
British weather I admit to the occasional longing for an hour or two of rain,
although I keep these sordid thoughts to myself.
On
Wednesday evening we visit San Giorgio Scarampi, a hill top town with a
wonderfully ornate chapel (San Antonio). The settlement is little more than a
collection of houses which makes the existence of the chapel even more
surprising. The views are just amazing.
We
are here to enjoy some cold meats and wine in the small bar next to the
Chapel. The food and wine are fab,
especially the local honey, not so the wasps and the Bar owner (Slime 2) – is
there a trend developing here?! His efforts and receipt of the subsequent
rebuff tarnish the night very slightly as we end up with a much higher bill
than it should have been. Nevertheless a night to remember.