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Lucca - Friday 24th August


Having failed to find somewhere free to park last night we have sucked up the cost of a rather nice campsite: Il Serchio. €20 for 24 hours, but the shade alone makes it worth the price, plus free hook up and we’re within walking distance of the town, ideal (and a Lidl round the corner that sells wine at €1.69 a bottle, EEK!). There seems now to be a new trend amongst fellow camper van types (FCVTs – remember them?) Gone are the addiction to chocks, now it seems the humble dressing gown is this weeks ‘in thing’. Whilst sat supping some local plonk we watch virtually every other person toing and froing from the shower block dressed in dressing gowns, despite the 35 degree heat. Even blokes. One poor chap was sporting a pink number – surely this wasn’t a voluntary decision? Another trend we certainly won’t be getting involved in (Noush disagrees, but that’s just cos she’s got a swishy little silk number that she likes to parade about in).
The rather unprepossessing outskirts of Lucca are thankfully not representative of the Lucca that you find within the city walls. Officially we love Lucca.

After a brief visit to the tourist office (where we find out about a concert in one of the squares this evening that oddly they didn’t seem to know about – go figure, and you had to pay nearly a Euro to visit the toilet – hardly a welcome is it?) we venture into the winding narrow depths of the walled city. After our recent experiences we expected Lucca to be packed, but whilst it’s pleasantly buzzing the place actually seems quiet. There are old shops that have been there for generations: tiny places selling niche local products and wonderful mysterious things. After escaping back to the campsite to shelter from the scorching heat that seems to be trapped and still within the city walls we venture back in the evening. We wander through the boho district where flickering flames in sconces throw shadows along the high stone walls. The doors of the art and fabric shops are open and welcoming and the owners stand about, drinking wine, talking to each other and generally pretending to work. Rounding one street corner we surprised to stumble on 3 guys (who I’m sure were shop owners) knocking out blues tunes!

We find the Debussy concert, thankfully this actually is taking place (fictional light show in Epernay anyone?), rather disappointingly it is inside, albeit in the rather grand Place Ducale. Poor Mr Organiser man is zooming around getting it all sorted at the last minute (so Italian!). Feel rather guilty opting for Debussy over Puccini, being as Puccini was born here, but what can you do? Debussy was free.. Lovely concert, amazing sax player (started off like a big breathy gobbling fish, but soon settled down) and a beautiful piano solo sets us up for a romantic stroll back through the town, past the blues players on the corner and finally to bed. Lucca has been kind to us indeed.